Imagine seeing the real Australia that few ever have the chance to experience? To stop, explore and discover places reserved for the lucky few. As the Indian Pacific cruised towards Perth on the last stages of its 3 day transcontinental journey from Sydney, passengers sat in the lounge car reflecting on a unique experience.
For many, it was the journey of a lifetime. What makes this adventure so unique?
The Indian Pacific is not a high speed dash across Australia.
The train's itinerary is carefully designed with the appropriate balance of whistle stop tours, all planned to unlock the vast and diverse continent's richness and diversity.
Those magic moments impossible for you to arrange, if travelling on your own.
I was fortunate to travel on this unique journey and I share with you the highlights and experiences of fellow passengers.
Sydney.
Australia's largest city is the county's main port of entry for overseas visitors and the start of the 3796 km odyssey across Australia.
In the late afternoon we cruised through Sydney's outer suburbs and climbed through the majestic Blue Mountains with its deep ravines and amazing scenery.
Broken Hill.
The following morning we were greeted with a spectacular desert sunrise and an introduction to the Australian Outback. Overnight we travelled from heavily timbered mountains to flat, almost treeless plains.
Broken Hill is a large inland city built following the discovery of huge silver deposits. Australia's major industrial company BHP had its origins here and although mining is still a major industry, tourism also plays an important role in the region's economy.
We were given a number of tour options during our tour hour stop here. I chose the tour of the mines as well as the city highlights. Broken Hill was the location of the popular movie Priscilla, Queen of the Desert and also featured in the movie Mad Max.
Adelaide.
South Australia's capital was the end of the journey for some passengers. They were either stopping in Adelaide or spending a short time here before joining the Ghan train for its trip north to Darwin or The Overland for its daylight journey to Melbourne.
Adelaide has many attractions. The well planned city is nestled alongside the Torrens River and is the base for exploration to many popular tourist destinations including the famous Barossa Valley wine region, Flinders Ranges and Murray River.
Cook.
This isolated tiny town in the middle of the Nullabor Plain was a real eye opener and a totally new experience for everyone. This was the true Outback. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, Cook's sole reason for existence was as a base for rail maintenance crews. It now has a population of 4.
Before our cabin attendant Nikki opened the doors for our 1 hour stopover, she warned us with a glorious piece of understatement: "It's pretty warm out there!"
She wasn't joking! When the furnace- like blast hit us we felt like retreating to the comfort of the train. Most of us braved the 47c ( 120f ) heat and we were rewarded with the discovery of a town that once boasted a school, hospital and general store.
Kalgoorlie.
In the gathering dusk, we returned to civilization. A myriad of lights from mine operations, welcomed us to our next whistle stop.
Kalgoorlie is a fascinating city. In the 1890s it was the centre of one of the biggest gold rushes in Australian history. By 1903, it had a population of 30 000, serviced by 93 hotels, 8 breweries and 25 brothels.
Two expedient ways to relieve the young single miners of their hard earned cash!
Today this vibrant inland city is the heart of a prosperous mining and tourist industry. Gold mining is still a major source of income and one open cut, called the Super Pit is so huge, it can be seen from space.
The train stops briefly at Kalgoorlie for a whistle stop tour and this is one that I recommend you take. You will learn of the raunchy and turbulent past of this outback city, spend time at the super pit and drive past one of the three remaining brothels.
In fact one of the brothels, Langtrees, is a quirky tourist venue, with daily guided tours of the "facilities". I took one of these tours a few years ago ( strictly as a visitor of course!) and was fascinated by what goes on behind the closed doors of these establishments.
There is so much to see and do in this region and a short tour does not do it justice.
If you want to explore the goldfields, why not leave the train at Kalgoorlie, hire a car and drive to Perth, a distance of less than 600km? Alternatively, stay a few days then travel to Perth on the fast and very comfortable day train called appropriately the "Prospector."
In the early hours, the svelte Indian Pacific slid smoothly away from Kalgoorlie and we were soon barrelling westwards towards our final destination on the Indian Ocean side of the continent.
As our train approached Perth past wheat fields, through the spectacular Avon Valley and alongside vineyards with the last of their leaves glowing golden in the sunshine, I was fascinated by the Australian-ness of it all.
It was like viewing a Frederick McCubbin landscape painting with its graphic images of the Australian bush.
Three days and 4352 kilometres after leaving Sydney, the Indian Pacific arrived at its western terminus, Perth the booming capital of Western Australia.
Reflections.
In many ways I was disappointed that this fascinating odyssey across my homeland had come to an end. There are few better ways to see and feel the magic of the Australian continent than on the Indian Pacific.
Which still begs the question: Why not fly from Sydney to Perth? It takes only 4 hours and it's much cheaper.
Granted, some have a fear of flying and are aware of its dangers.
Paul and Jessica from California, volunteered the answer as we enjoyed a drink in the lounge car.
"We came here to see Australia", said Paul. "If we flew, it would be just like a flight from New York to our home in San Diego. We would see nothing.
The Indian Pacific gave us a chance to meet many Aussies and learn about their country. We saw and experienced the outback and the inland mining towns as well as scenery very different to home. This to us was the only way to see the real Australia."
0 comments:
Post a Comment